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When
in Lucca
The medieval town of
Lucca is an undiscovered gem that rivals nearby Florence, Pisa, and Siena.
Little known beyond the cognoscenti who have vacationed here for
generations, the surrounding Lucchesia region has a charm even more authentic
and sophisticated than the rest of Tuscany. The landscape of gentle hills,
blanketed with olive groves and vineyards, camellia-scented gardens and
forested coastline, is a haven of calm and beauty.
Lucca,
the walled 'city of a hundred churches'--a treasure trove of medieval
and Renaissance art and architecture.
.
The
palacial villas of the Lucca aristocracy offer views into a world of beauty,
a life surrounded by art.
The traditional cuisine of Lucchesia
balances subtle sophistication with an earthy appreciation for the local
bounty of the land.
The beaches of Versilia, little known to foreign
tourists, are where the money of Milan vacations, nestled in
the pine woods that edge the coast, or ensconced in the exclusive beach
hotels of Forte dei Marmi, Viareggio, Lido di Camaiore, and Marina di
Pietrasanta. Don't even think about staying during the season, early May
to late September. Unless you have reserved your few square feet for many
generations, you are no better off than the paparazzi. Happily you have
your own villa in Lucca, just a short drive home.
But do take a day trip, or several. Stroll the beaches. Enjoy the
cool air of the coastal pine forests called La Versiliana at Marina di
Pietrasanta. Explore the old town of Forte dei Marmi, where Leopoldo I
built his fortress in 1700, and where marble from the nearby quarries
was carried to the docks through streets mapped out by Michelangelo. Visit
the oldest Italian night-club, the Capannina, open since 1929. Take a
dip at the historic Ariston Baths, which also offers excellent Tuscan
maritime cooking.
For a special meal in Forte dei Marmi, try Lorenzo at Via Carducci
61. You will have to wait in line for a table, but the exquisite seafood
is worth the wait. Try the spelt soup with fish and the oven-cooked sea
bass with potatoes and tomatoes.
For another spectacularly authentic meal, drive up the hills behind
Camaiore for ten minutes to Il Vignaccio at Piazza della Chiesa, 5, in
Santa Lucia. This osteria offers mushroom crostini, chicken livers and
cold cuts, spelt soup, oven baked piglet, and many other local delicacies.
In Lucca, shopping is a splendid sensual
experience: look for fine silks and culinary treats.
Carrara and Pietrasanta are known throughout
the world for their precious white marble from the Apuane Alps.
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